2005 05 30: What's for breakfast?

by Joseph McConnell

Grab a cookbook off your shelf. Any one. Look at the table of contents. How many breakfast recipes are there? Probably not many. Cookbooks are driven by the restaurant culture now, and Tony Bourdain ain't making much in the way of breakfast at Les Halles. Mario probably doesn't even get up that early. In fact, want to bet it'll be a long time before we see "Battle Ham n' Eggs" on Iron Chef America?

So this Memorial Day weekend, when your CII staff were stumbling around the kitchen, pondering the old question, "What's to eat?" we found ourselves somewhat short of reference material. We had bacon and eggs up with toast yesterday (I know: boring. But also wonderful.), so what else is there? Aha. We've got cornbread we made in large quantities on Saturday. And fruit. And of course, more eggs. Fruit, eggs, cornbread -- cornbread, fruit, eggs -- hmmm.

How about ancho-dried blueberry sauce with diced mango over cornbread and poached eggs? Huh? Well, what about it? Ever made it before? No. But I want to. I don't know why, but I want to. And so we did. And in our humble opinion, it was pretty damn tasty. Here's the drill, followed by the requisite recipes.

Make the blueberry sauce as described below, and dice one mango. Poach one or two eggs, as desired, per person, and plate it like this: two slices of corn bread, topped with the egg or eggs. Pile the mango alongside, and encircle with a generous drizzle of the blueberry sauce. Add a grind of black or white pepper to each egg.

Eating it involves making a hideous-looking mess as the colors mix and the cornbread crumbles, but overlook that minor detail. Coffee is de rigeur, and sparkling water -- you don't want any more fruit juice than you already have. Consider adding a few slices of applewood smoked bacon to the whole thing -- that would have been gilding the lily, perhaps, but still ...


Breakfast for two:

4 slices Homemade cornbread

Ancho-Dried blueberry sauce
1 Fresh mango, diced
2 to 4 Large, fresh eggs

Cornbread: makes 2 loaves:(make days ahead -- it keeps extremely well in the refrigerator)

3 cups Unbleached flour
3 cups Yellow cornmeal
1 cup Sugar
1 teaspoon each Baking powder, baking soda, salt
1 cup each Milk, buttermilk, olive oil
4 Large eggs

Preheat oven to 350. Grease two loaf pans. Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in bowl of an electric mixer. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, oil, milk, and buttermilk. Add egg mixture to dry ingredients and mix until just combined. Do not over mix.

Pour batter into loaf pans and bake for 15 minutes at 350. Lower heat to 325 and bake for another hour. Cool bread in the pan on a rack for 30 minutes; turn out onto the rack and serve warm or at room temperature.


Ancho-Dried Blueberry Sauce: again, make it ahead if you wish

1/2 cup Dried blueberries
1 Ancho chile, whole
1 cup Water
2 tablespoons Sugar

Combine blueberries, chile, sugar, and water in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Check periodically to ensure sauce is not drying out.

Remove chile and discard. Place sauce in the bowl of a food processor and allow to cool slightly. Puree and serve warm or at room temperature.

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